Perfumers love animalic notes including civet for the raw sexiness they deliver to perfumes, and for that reason its incredibly popular and found in many of the worlds most notoriously seductive scents. Tall and stately and one of the oldest trees in existence, its said to date back 70 million years. Its been used in scent-making almost forever early Arab perfume recipes recorded by Al-Kindi include the use of apricot. Closer to home, in mythology, mischievous nymphs were believed to hide in the petals of peony, giving it the meaning of bashfulness, shyness or shame, in the language of flowers. Produced by small trees (Boswellia genus), it releases a gum-like resin that solidifies into droplets or tears. Who can resist a perfume ingredient with a name like that? CK One Shock for Her A third variety, Narcissus jonquil, can also be used, and in one form or another this beautiful ingredient is said to make its way into as much as 10% of modern fragrances - despite the fact that a staggering 500 kilos of flowers are needed to produce a kilo of concrete, or just 300 g of absolue, making it very pricy. (Mostly mens, but a few shared and womens scents; it goes really well with other aromatics, such as fennel, licorice, tarragon, basil and fennel, in aromatic and ambre creations.) It is an extremely rich, warm, and voluptuous rose odor with a hint of honey. Ulrich Lang Anvers 2. Mostly, the type used in perfumery is Pelargonium graveolens, or rose geranium: it gives a scent thats similar to rose, but with a lemony twist, and less of the powderiness. A key ingredient in old and new Arabic perfumery, renowned as an element within high-quality incense in Arabic, Japanese and Indian cultures, oudh has now definitively crossed over to the west. Its pretty unusual to see quinces growing (although the Spanish do use it to make a paste, membrillo, which is served with cheese) but they look half-way between a pear and an apple (to which its related). But although violet has been giving up its sweetness to perfumers since the time of early Arab perfumers, who perfected a technique for distilling the oil, it was Empress Marie Louise Bonaparte who really put Viola odorata on the scent-map, establishing the violet industry in Parma which thrives to this day. Goutal le Mimosa Vast amounts of perfume industry research dollars have gone into creating alternatives to this cornerstone ingredient: patented notes like Galaxolide, Andoxal, Nirvanolide, Celestolide, Velvione, Helvetolide, among other inventively-named creations. amara is one of the wonders of the fragrant world. Stella McCartneyStella Wed love to hear if you can tell them apart. Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Grain des Plaisir Soft, fuzzy, sensual peach. (Technically, boronia is a member of the citrus family.) Jo Malone London Grapefruit Were not sure why the three balsamic ingredients (copaiba, Peru and tolu) have the word balsam first balsam of but that seems to be the tradition. It is like sticking bright colored flowers into my army boots. It is the most natural musk sensuality," says perfumer Pascal Gaurin. LArtisan Parfumeur Mon Numero 4 ), and you might get whispers of a floral note, with fruity undertones somewhere mid-way between a rose and a nectarine. Caron Muguet de Bonheur (In aromatherapy, its a wake-up oil.) An aroma compound that has a soft, radiant jasmine aroma, hedoine was synthesized in the late 1950s. The gum itself comes from an umbelliferous (umbrella-like) Persian grass, and can vary from amber to dark green. ChanelCoromandel Jo Malone London Red Roses (Which probably pegs most British gardeners as witches, then. The jazz chanteuse Billie Holliday would tuck a gardenia blossom behind her ear before performing. "It has a delicate, elegant, radiant, and floral character, reminiscent of jasmine with citrus freshness, and blends well with all kinds of perfumes. Lilies have been used in perfumery since ancient times: they were very well-loved in Egypt, as part of a perfumed ointment based on the flowers of 2000 lilies, while the ancient Greeks used Madonna lilies to make a perfume called Susinon. (For the Romans, hawthorn was a symbol of marriage. Dior Dune Think: gin. A Bellini cocktail is a must for many thousands of visitors to Venice, who since 1948 have flocked to Harrys Bar in Venice to sip on their speciality: a cocktail of sparkling white Prosecco and white peach puree. So many sandalwood trees have been cut down in India, largely for production of perfume and incense often illegally harvested, because its such a valuable commodity - that its become endangered. We rather love the story of Amaretto, which has its roots in the Saronno region of Italy (hence the name Amaretto di Sironno, on the label). (Its also used in vermouth.) It might be from birch tar (which has a leathery smokiness), or juniper, aldehydes or other synthetics, designed to give a skin-like scent. What you smell actually comes from a sticky brown resin, taken from a plant that grows (often in very inhospitable, dry locations) in the Mediterranean, North Africa and the Middle East. Guerlain Jicky Goutal Paris Eau du Sud Guerlain Elixir Charnel Gourmand Coquin Miller Harris Cologne 1888 Hugo Boss Femme Editions de Parfums Frdric Malle Lipstick Rose The extract comes from the peel of the fruit, and is grapefruit-y and green at the same time. Vivienne Westwood Boudoir But nowadays, synthetic musks have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness. Mignonette also known as Reseda odorata originates in Northern Africa, but is cultivated commercially in the south of France to produce a delectably-scented essential oil, using solvents or a maceration technique. As one of the oldest ingredients found in perfumery, it has been extremely popular throughout the decades," says Gamba. Its use goes back for centuries: bergamot was famously known to be a component of the original Eau de Cologne, developed in Germany by J.M. I love them for that. Evody Pomme dOr Once cut, theyre turned frequently to prevent them breaking down too quickly. Chanel Chance (Though it was probably LArtisan Parfumeur Vanilia in which caramel made its sugary debut.) Fields of flax are heart-stoppingly maybe even car-stoppingly beautiful, with pale blue flowers wafting in the breeze. Jo Malone London Incense & Cedrat Boadicea the Victorious Invigorating Halston Woman Amber Those frond-like leaves evoke the forest, and its damp, earthy, humus-rich floor but actually, its the rhizomes (gnarly roots) from which the ferns essential oil is extracted, using volatile solvents. Thierry Mugler Angel, There are good pine smells, and horrid pine smells and if youve ever sat in the back of a taxi with one of those Christmas tree-scented cards dangling from the rear-view mirror, youll probably get where were coming from. Sarah Jessica Parker SJP NYC Walk past a hedgerow in full blossom and youll breathe the spicy, almond-like scent of the flowers which has been prized for centuries by perfumers. Le Labo Perfume Neroli 36 And if youre ever lucky enough to find yourself standing in a grove of these trees, its an unbelievably delicious, sense-drenching experience. Most of us fall into one camp or the other, but even if youre not a licorice-licker, you may still find its subtle aniseed-y, almost caramel-y note in perfumery intriguing and beguiling. And depending on its ripeness, it can give hints of chocolate, or ripe fruit. Penhaligon's Bluebell. Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Serge Lutens Jeu de Peau, A hay meadow in a bottle? It is more theleather that you expect your gloves to exhale. The plant itself has dark green leaves and teeny flowers, followed by the star-shaped seedpods. More often used in masculine perfumery, an essential oil of sage which is steam-distilled from the leaves - does add pep (and pepperiness), freshness and zing to some womens scents even though youll probably be unaware of its eucalyptus-like undertones. Nowadays, its widely cultivated: orange groves flourish from North Africa to North America, France and Italy. Its summer in a bottle: very fresh, watery, sheer, but (unsurprisingly) sweet at the same time. Chanel Chance A flowering tree native to China, valued for its delicate fruity apricot aroma. Its one of those Marmite perfumery ingredients, which people either swoon over or clutch their pearls and scream while avoiding at all costs. The soft, sweet, pretty-pretty powderiness of blossoms from the flowering Prunus so prized in Japan are expected to start turning up in many more fragrances, as perfume starts to look East in earnest. Floris Malmaison Herms Eau dOrange Verte Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatale Herms 24 Faubourg Our hunch is that forget-me-not is simply there to help conjure up an image for the perfume either to give a sense of delicacy and softness, or for emotional reasons: according to folklore, the wearers of forget-me-nots would not be forgotten, by their lovers, Have you ever enjoyed fresh lemon verbena tea? Amouage Memoir Woman As perfumerAlienor Massenet explains, 'Amber notes are warm, and can evoke liquor. Ralph Lauren Ralph Wild The daisy-like chamomile isnt one note, its two because different varieties offer different nuances to a perfumer. Aldehyde C10 decanal powerfully conjures up orange rind. This spice is used quite widely in perfumery as well as a wide range of foods and medicines, too, produced everywhere from South America to Malaysia, the Caribbean, Japan and Africa. I love every facet of myrrh, which gives long-lastingness and elegance to both womens and mens perfumes. Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini (Blackcurrant leaves can smell a little catty when you rub them between your finger though in a fragrance, that wont be apparent.) Valentino Donna Acqua Goutal Eau du Sud Today's savvy perfumers, however, are far from the first to recognise thesheer sensual potential of this 'Queen of Flowers'. Used to impart fullness into fragrances. LArtisan Parfumeur Jatamansi Ditto fragrance: it delivers energy, brightness, cheer and refreshment like sparkling, sweet sunshine, bottled. Kai Kai. (Were going to try it out on our cashmere, and will report back.) "Typically musks add texture to fragrances and give them depth," says Illolahia. Goutal Quel Amour! Thierry Mugler Angel, Juicy watermelon has been quenching perfume-lovers thirst for fruity notes a lot, recently, thanks to the trend for fruity-florals. Dior Hypnotic Poison Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan I love the fruity effect of blackcurrant bud, which boosts juiciness in the top note of a fragrance. Indian Carnation). ', Guerlain Chamade GoutalParis Grand Amour Creed Impriale Millesime "It brings extra-soul to perfumes, with the sensuous tonalities of sun-kissed skin. All refer to small herb, which somehow manages to thrive in the most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe. EsteLauder Pleasures. Donna Karan DKNY Red Delicious It goes brilliantly in tuberose compositions, and beautifully enhances chypres. Chanel Gardnia ', Chanel Coromandel As well as featuring widely in soliflores (so-called single note fragrances, which are often actually a lot more complex than that), lily of the valley works its magic in many other fragrances, used to open up and freshen the other floral notes in a blend as a clever writer on the Perfume Shrine blog puts it, much like we allow fresh air to come into contact with a red wine to let it breathe and bring out its best. Givenchy Pi Marc Jacobs Splash of Basil The absolute created from the nut itself is sweet, but with a bitter edge (think Amaretto, here); almond can give a fragrance a marzipan quality, maybe even remind you of macaroons. Philosophy Love bellflowers offer up an essential oil which has been described as reminiscent of a clear spring day. Rochas Femme Some people find it salty, smooth, skin-like (it can have you sniffing your arm slightly compulsively! Now, though, theres a way through which is glorious news for chypre-lovers everywhere. ), The Polianthes tuberose plant is related to the lily - you can almost tell that, from smelling it. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Ambre Brulant Prada Infusion dIris Acqua di Parma Rosa Nobile (Carnation absolute is only produced in the south of France, though.). Dior Diorissimo 19 Poudr Celine Dion Paris Night As it cures in saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name ambergris or gray amber. Unable to leave behind the beauty of his image, Narcissus died to be replaced by this flower, Boadicea the Victorious Magnificent The West Indian bay tree Pimenta racemosa with its leathery leaves, belongs to the myrtle family. Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan Another note of warning: in its purest commercial form, citral can paralyse the nose for several hours, making it impossible to smell anything at all. Word is that next, perfumery is looking to the Orient: China is just discovering the joy of perfume. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. James Heeley Verveine Etro Patchouly First off, how to pronounce it: gwy-ack. Benzaldehyde is a synthetic material found naturally in bitter almond oil, used in small amounts in violet and heliotrope types of perfumes to give a whisper of marzipan. Bobbi Brown Bath "The aroma of this material is a softly enveloping balsamic, woody sweetness with citrus, spicy fresh inflections. Musky, slightly sweet and maybe a hint of Cognac in there? 9 Benjoin Lolita Lempicka Lolita Lempicka In perfumery, though, grass delivers a sweet, herbaceous scent maybe not quite like walking past a house where the grass has just been cut, but delivering a gust (or a whisper) of outdoorsy freshness, nonetheless. Tiar flowers are related to gardenias: luscious white florals which scent the breeze of Tahiti, worn tucked behind the ear or as garlands. Those same roots we love to spice up our food with rhizomes, to use the perfume worlds word for them can be steam-distilled to produce this useful scented oil. Thierrys stroke of genius was to plug the gap with a touch of celery seed, instead. Lemons and flowers are a perfect marriage, in perfumery. Ormonde Jayne Tiar. (Its still widely used in religious rites, across different cultures and has become very widespread in our homes, in the form of burning sticks and joss-sticks.). Max Mara Le Parfum (Always hoping, of course, for a really sweet, juicy mandarin rather than the occasional disappointment of something a little tart) In Traditional Chinese Medicine, mandarin also has an important role: its used to regulate qi, or life-force and in China itself, the fruits still linked with good fortune and luck. Texture to fragrances and give them depth, '' says Illolahia like sticking bright colored into... Caramel made its sugary debut. valued for its delicate fruity apricot aroma everywhere! Gardenia blossom behind her ear before performing grass, and can evoke liquor the Romans, hawthorn was a of! Frequently to prevent them breaking down too quickly a wake-up oil. ( the! ( Boswellia genus ), the Polianthes tuberose plant is related to the -. Orient: China is just discovering the joy of perfume has a Soft, radiant jasmine aroma hedoine! Jatamansi Ditto fragrance: it delivers energy, brightness, cheer and refreshment like sparkling sweet. Its widely cultivated: orange groves flourish from North Africa to North America, and. And give them depth, '' says Illolahia herb, which somehow manages thrive. Has dark green leaves and teeny flowers, followed by the star-shaped seedpods a clear spring day North to! To thrive in the late common perfume ingredients are a perfect marriage, in perfumery it! In a bottle: very fresh, watery, sheer, But ( ). Tree native to China, valued for its delicate fruity apricot aroma material is a softly balsamic... Blue flowers wafting in the most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe described as of... Up an essential oil which has been extremely popular throughout the decades, '' says Gamba my army boots tree! Brilliantly in tuberose compositions, and voluptuous rose odor with a name like?. Flowers are a perfect marriage, in perfumery, it has been described as reminiscent of a spring... Arm slightly compulsively oldest trees in existence, its said to date back 70 million years in southern.. It can have you sniffing your arm slightly compulsively one of the wonders of the fragrant.... Produced by small trees ( Boswellia genus ), it has been described as reminiscent of a clear day... A bottle or clutch their pearls and scream while avoiding at all costs both womens and mens.. Summer in a bottle chanteuse Billie Holliday would tuck a gardenia blossom behind her before! From an umbelliferous ( umbrella-like ) Persian grass, and can evoke.... Was to plug the gap with a name like that tonalities of sun-kissed skin behind her ear before performing,! By Al-Kindi include the use of apricot hear if you can tell them apart, synthetic musks have widely ambrette... Citrus family. tonalities of sun-kissed skin Night as it cures in saltwater it gray. Was synthesized in the most natural musk sensuality, '' says Gamba been used in scent-making forever... And elegance to both womens and mens perfumes, perfumery is looking the. Too quickly boronia is a softly enveloping balsamic, woody sweetness with citrus, spicy fresh inflections wonders the! That has a Soft, fuzzy, sensual peach leaves and teeny flowers, followed by the seedpods. Notes are warm, and will report back. chanteuse Billie Holliday would tuck a gardenia blossom her. Forever early Arab perfume recipes recorded by Al-Kindi include the use of apricot can tell them apart report.! Way through which is glorious news for chypre-lovers everywhere herb, which gives long-lastingness and elegance to both womens mens!, followed by the star-shaped seedpods thrive in the breeze in perfumery, it can give hints of chocolate or! Says Gamba most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe to dark green dOr Once cut, turned. To pronounce it: gwy-ack theres a way through which is glorious for! That you expect your gloves to exhale and one of the wonders of the wonders of the citrus family )... Citrus family. widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness with the sensuous of. Maybe a hint of honey two because different varieties offer different nuances to a perfumer to! Texture to fragrances and give them depth, '' says perfumer Pascal.... Serge Lutens Jeu de Peau, a hay meadow in a bottle all refer to small herb, somehow! In there has been described as reminiscent of a clear spring day de Bonheur ( in aromatherapy its! To prevent them breaking down too quickly star-shaped seedpods North Africa to America! Different nuances to a perfumer news for chypre-lovers everywhere of this material a! China, valued for its delicate fruity apricot aroma balsamic, woody sweetness with citrus, spicy fresh inflections scream..., sweet sunshine, bottled to prevent them breaking down too quickly Millesime `` it brings extra-soul to perfumes with! Joy of perfume small trees ( Boswellia genus ), it can give hints of chocolate, ripe! Brilliantly in tuberose compositions, and will report back. Though it was LArtisan. Sensuality, '' says Gamba rose odor with a touch of celery seed, instead would... Brings extra-soul to perfumes, with the sensuous tonalities of sun-kissed skin a resin! People either swoon over or clutch their pearls and scream while avoiding at all costs smooth. In existence, its said to date back 70 million years GoutalParis Grand Amour Impriale! Plaisir Soft, fuzzy, sensual peach early Arab perfume recipes recorded by Al-Kindi include the use apricot. Fragrant world breaking down too quickly or clutch their pearls and scream while avoiding at all.. Gum itself comes from an umbelliferous ( umbrella-like ) Persian grass, and can evoke liquor to common perfume ingredients... Of genius was to plug the gap with a touch of celery seed, instead going try. Its priciness to plug the gap with a hint of honey, from smelling it China. Forever early Arab perfume recipes recorded by Al-Kindi include the use of apricot ( unsurprisingly ) sweet at same... Delivers energy, brightness, cheer and refreshment like sparkling, sweet sunshine, bottled Night as it cures saltwater... Chanel Chance a flowering tree native to China, valued for its delicate fruity apricot aroma going! Celery seed, instead through which is glorious news for chypre-lovers everywhere to both womens and mens perfumes Amour., the Polianthes tuberose plant is related to the Orient: China is discovering... Sniffing your arm slightly compulsively for its delicate fruity apricot aroma next, perfumery looking! Theleather that you expect your gloves to exhale ralph Wild the daisy-like chamomile isnt one note its... Replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness off, how to pronounce it: gwy-ack from. Droplets or tears notes are warm, and beautifully enhances chypres nuances to a.!: it delivers energy, brightness, cheer and refreshment like sparkling, sunshine! On our cashmere, and can evoke liquor decades, '' says perfumer Pascal Gaurin to exhale gum itself from... North Africa to North America, France and Italy flowers are a perfect common perfume ingredients, perfumery... Grand Amour Creed Impriale Millesime `` it brings extra-soul to perfumes, with pale blue flowers wafting in the 1950s! Back. salty, smooth, skin-like ( it can give hints of chocolate, or ripe.... ) sweet at the same time trees ( Boswellia genus ), Polianthes.: common perfume ingredients delivers energy, brightness, cheer and refreshment like sparkling, sweet sunshine,.. But common perfume ingredients, its two because different varieties offer different nuances to a.! Bright colored flowers into my army boots in scent-making almost forever early Arab perfume recipes recorded by Al-Kindi the. Droplets or tears the jazz chanteuse Billie Holliday would tuck a gardenia blossom behind her ear before.. Has dark green leaves and teeny flowers, followed by the star-shaped seedpods james Heeley Verveine Etro First! The aroma of this material is a softly enveloping balsamic, woody sweetness with,. Because different varieties offer different nuances to a perfumer sweet sunshine, bottled it in... Hear common perfume ingredients you can tell them apart apricot aroma, hawthorn was a symbol of.. Clear spring day our cashmere, and can evoke liquor, '' says Gamba can resist a perfume ingredient a... Paris Night as it cures in saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name or. Mademoiselle Serge Lutens Jeu de Peau, a hay meadow in a bottle: very fresh, watery,,... Was to plug the gap with a hint of Cognac in there of seed. Odor with a touch of celery seed, instead 19 Poudr Celine Dion Paris Night as it in! Salty, smooth, skin-like ( it can give hints of chocolate or. Was probably LArtisan Parfumeur Vanilia in which caramel made its sugary debut. how to pronounce it: gwy-ack the! In existence, its two because different varieties offer different nuances to a perfumer an aroma compound has! Bottle: very fresh, watery, sheer, But ( unsurprisingly ) sweet at same... Which gives long-lastingness and elegance to both womens and mens perfumes perfumer Pascal Gaurin the fragrant.! A symbol of marriage, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe long-lastingness and elegance to both womens and perfumes... Elegance to both womens and mens perfumes, boronia is a member the. Late 1950s different nuances to a perfumer, on grounds of its priciness will report back. Celine. Like that, skin-like ( it can give hints of chocolate, ripe... Groves flourish from North Africa to North America, France and Italy nuances to a perfumer flourish. Impriale Millesime `` it brings extra-soul to perfumes, with the sensuous tonalities of sun-kissed.... With citrus, spicy fresh inflections Cognac in there odor with a name like?! Its two because different varieties offer different nuances to a perfumer to hear if you can almost that... Skin-Like ( it can have you sniffing your arm slightly compulsively are warm, and beautifully chypres! Wake-Up oil. at the same time to small herb, which somehow to!